Ive just landed into Sydney right now so I havent done some sort of killer teleportation move where I can transport myself to balcony and back in a flash. It would have been a smooth-as-you-like flight had I not stupidly lost my glasses on the flight to Hong Kong for the transfer. Now Im slightly poo-ing myself that my eyes will burn and burst with blood vessel goop everywhere because Ive overworn my contact lenses.
To see this familiar font above a shop space is a happy sight indeed. To see it on a Rivington Street shop space is even better. When leather goods designer Jas M.B. closed his Doors by Jas M.B. store on Ganton Street in Soho, it was another jab into the number of diminishing independent boutiques (boo to the likes of Machine-A and My Sugarland closing in the last few months…). That smell from the leather-clad walls used to beckon me to pop in even though I already had a trusty Jas M.B. bag (or two…).
The newly rejuvenated Doors store on 20 Rivington opened last week before Easter, to a heaving guestlist, all welcoming Jas M.B.
For shame on me for not walking those extra steps when Kingsland Road/High Street ends and Stoke Newington Road begins. Actually, for shame one me for not being more observant of whats going on in London in general. I just worked out that in the past year, Ive been away from London for the good part of it (five months) which means that time devoted to meandering and mincing about in London has been drastically cut down. This needs to be rectified for my own sanity as well as to be more informed for the blog.
Thankfully people like Fred Butler are more diligent and have their ears to the ground.
>> It’s always been a point of lament that there no longer exists ‘houses’ in London in the same way that Paris has their ‘maisons’ – Chanel, Dior, Givenchy etc. The resurrection and revival pattern never quite caught the imaginations of investors here to think of reviving the likes of Redfern, Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell to their former glory (althought Amies now exists as a Savile Row tailoring business…). You walk by the Norman Hartnell address on 26 Bruton Street now and next door ye shall find Juicy Couture who actually rent the adjoining building with the Hartnell Suites which is why yesterday, we were able to have a little peek inside the House of Hartnell home to one of the few British couturiers that spanned the decades from the 1920s to the late 60s, bolstered by his three Royal Warrants as Dressmaker to the Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II.
Yes, it’s all a bit opportunistic and conveniently timed, showing off the suite where Hartnell fitted a young Queen Elizabeth into her wedding gown, three weeks before another royal wedding. That said, I relished the chance to take in a space that has been lovingly restored in all areas, each panelled mirror to the plush carpet to the boat shaped chandelier that resides above the door. It feels odd to connect Juicy Couture with Norman Hartnell but at the very least, it’s interesting that as opposed to burying the past of 26 Bruton Place, they’re celebrating it…
The rise and fall of Hartnell’s couture house which at one point in the 1950s, employed over 500 people is fascinating and it’s a tale that is well summarised here in this Telegraph article. He’s probably most famous for designing Queen Elizabeth and Princess Margaret’s wedding dresses as well as Queen Elizabeth’s wedding gown. I’m actually only mildly interested in Hartnell’s connection with the royal family (and even less interested in the pending nuptials that will take place on the day that I flee to Sydney to avoid the festivities…). What I find interesting is the essence of Hartnell’s work as well as his philosophy that sat in line with Christian Dior’s approach to womenswear. I found a few excerpts from the out of print autobiography “Silver and Gold” here and his self-penned text says a great deal about his approach as well the delight he takes in sumptuous and luxurious fabric indulgence…
“The pastel shades of velvet are almost irresistible in palest turquoise, lilac and candy pink, but resisted they are, for they would prove too costly for the young wearer and too enlargening for the mature. Some exqui
Meadham Kirchhoff seem to favour the surprise pounce tactic – first they send their models whizzing out in zombie army formation, doing two turns and the A/W 11-12 show is over in a flash and on Friday, they dropped their third collection for Topshop earlier than expected, spawning quickie newsflash posts all over the blogosphere. The sense of urgency is emphasised but that’s not just down to timing not when TINSEL SKIRTS, SHREDDED and BLEACHED FLORALS mixed with BRETON and LEOPARD are involved. Actually, the urgency placed upon tinsel skirts has already made itself known, seeing as both the pink and silver styles of foil strand skirts are now sold out on Topshop, with not much chance of restocking either as I was told by the shop staff that the collection came in limited run. See? Another instance of Meadha, Kirchhoff playing hard to get.